Sherman Questions IX

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled #408, 2002
2. Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2010

With the staging of tasteless women in shiny, ruffled evening gowns, Sherman finds herself united with Marc Jacobs and his incisive collections. Alternating between grey wallflower minimalism and an explosion of tackiness.
/HORST

Image credits Cindy Sherman, Catwalking

Sherman Questions VIII

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled (Balenciaga), 2007
2. Roberto Cavalli Spring/Summer 2004

Another image from the infamous yet untitled Balenciaga series. But this time, Sherman's outfit feels rather Cavalli-esque. A nod from the art of high fashion to the blonde ambitions of Barbie couture?
/HORST

Image credits Cindy Sherman, Catwalking

Sherman Questions V

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled, 2000
2. Givenchy Spring/Summer 2011

The sinister side of Sherman is perpetuated by the self-portrait of a red haired woman in a black negligée, presumptive inhabitant of a trailer park (where suburban Grunge and Goth meet). If Sherman's woman is a rich, subversive beast, her character would wear Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci.
/HORST

Image credits Cindy Sherman, Catwalking

Sherman Questions III

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled #225, 1990
2. Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007

One example of incorporating fake body parts and creating a moment of exhibitionist shock. In this regard, Sherman does not only quote the iconic image of Virgin with Child, she also appears close to Jean Paul Gaultier and his skin flashing runway moments. Not rarely quoting symbols of religion and holiness. By offering her right breast and wearing the black lace of a sinful widow, Sherman is bearing the cross.
/HORST

Image credits Cindy Sherman, Catwalking

Sherman Questions II

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled #400, 2000
2. Lanvin Fall/Winter 2008

While exploring the decadent side of the rich and Botox-injected, Sherman also uses body parts to create her characters. Consequently, she dresses up as a doll in a literal manner. And reflects on a culture of 'all that money can buy'.
/HORST

Image credits Cindy Sherman, Catwalking

Sherman Questions

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled #122, 1983
2. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009

Glamour girl, art billionaire and woman of the year. Images and words will never capture this complex multi-personae. Thus, I will focus on a character study through the means of fashion: Who is Cindy Sherman? And who would she be wearing?
/HORST

The Camp Of Plagiarism

a) Mona Lisa, 1504-1518
 

b) Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, 1862


c) Gabrielle d’Estrées et une de ses soeurs, 1594
Mario Sorrenti for Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 1999

In few cases, copying induces in beautiful plagiarism. We are all aware of the original masterpiece and still there is a noticeable, very attractive element of intrude. Adding a certain something that doesn't belong to the iconic image.
/HORST

Ani/Mate III

(Women's edition)



1. Sailor Moon Chibiusa as Black Lady
2. Givenchy Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011

Completing our recent Manga trilogy. When the idea of Anime mass production/consumption is challenged in haute couture by Riccardo Tisci. And doesn't it feel so current with Steven Meisel taking on twitpic and Nick Knight launching the first instagram shoot?
/HORST

Ani/Mate II

1. Barazoku ('Rose Tribe') NO. 19
2. Pierre Debusschere RS-RE 1 : AS

Raf likes to work with Pierre and I like to work with duplicates. Episodes of the subconsciously discovered and repeatedly recurrent. Even to myself it is a phenomenon what pairing will be next.
/HORST

Ani/Mate

1. Yoshihiro Togashi Yū Yū Hakusho
2. Raf Simons 1995 Spring/Summer 2012

My newly reawakened love for Manga and Anime, reflected in a former, long-time established love for 'the one' menswear brand from Antwerp, Belgium. In this case, the love becomes manifest in Toyko Pop.
/HORST

M + MMM III

1. René Magritte La Magie Noire, 1935
2. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2010

Surrealist camouflage in thigh-high boots. Why can't just every woman dress like an art exhibition or private gallery viewing. Wearing the artwork or vice versa. This may also apply to men, of course.
/HORST

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M + MMM II

1. René Magritte Le Modele Rouge, 1939
2. Maison Martin Margiela Tabi shoes

A feeling of the awkward. That, nonetheless, steadily develops a certain fascination. And one question remains: Who will be walking in these shoes. Or will these shoes wear their walker?
/HORST

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Obviously III

1. Jeff Koons Large Vase of Flowers, 1991
2. Finale at Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012 show
3. Raf Simons' heartbreaking good-bye, Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012
4. Jeff Koons Sacred Heart, 1994

Flowers and hearts, from Jeff to Raf. Now that the Dior rumours are finally confirmed, we can move on. And discover further, visual tributes. A sign of new, strictly self-referential commercial heights?
/HORST

Omen, Interrupted

1. Raf Simons last collection for Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012
2. Another anonymous design team collection for Dior Fall/Winter 2012

Things that could have been and things that have never been. Speculations about a successor for Dior. And suddenly, similar thoughts become visible on the runway. The black insert dress. An omen, interrupted.
/HORST

P.S.: It has become silent around Raf Simons. Where are the latest rumours?

Obviously II

1. Helmut Lang
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

After paying typography homage to Helmut via the Jil Sander backstage T-shirt, Raf Simons continues with the x-cross for his own menswear line. Turning inside out.
/HORST

Image credits ebay, Catwalking

Deadlines

Before

Andy Warhol & Keith Haring Untitled (Madonna, I'm Not Ashamed), 1985

After

New York Post February 23, 1987

The irony in an artist's body of work. When media reactions to the creation of pop are quoted by pop art and the result itself is eventually being echoed by the original media again. A case of intertextual reflection on 'the moment' in communication.
/HORST

Warhol: Headlines, February 11 – May 13 2012, MMK Museum für Moderne Kunst, Frankfurt Am Main, Germany

Balenciaga Questions XVII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008
2. Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2012

And finally, Proenza Schouler. They may have presented their best collection to date but its appeal and success is predicated on the prophecies of Cristóbal Balenciaga and Nicolas Ghesquière. The final question is: Are we witnessing a conscious Balenciaga recycling, or are the Fall/Winter 2012 collections quite simply proof for a triumphant change in womenswear?
/HORST

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Balenciaga Questions XVI

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2012
2. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2012

Back to London. J.W. Anderson chose s silhouette reminescent of an almost religious Balenciaga woman, altering between witch, high priestess and apocalyptic nun. Her eyes hidden, her robe created of hyper technologic fabrics.
/HORST

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Balenciaga Questions XV

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
2. Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2012

The Balenciaga phenomenon has also reached and affected New York Fashion Week. Alexander Wang showed a collecton that didn't work with mirrored Balenciaga twin looks but an overall mood that felt very Ghesquière-esque. Brutalist shapes, stiff structures and complex panelling.
/HORST

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Balenciaga Questions XIV

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2012
2. Topshop Unique Fall/Winter 2012

The hotpant and the boxy jacket. Forming the image of high performance courier girls. Always on the run, always striving for being first. Yet, everything has been done before, has been attempted already.
/HORST

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