Sherman Questions IV

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled #129, 1983
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2006

Melancholic women, beaten by their fears and the eternity of life. The will to create is mostly motivated by the artist's urge to achieve immortality. While art is still said to posess the strength of eternal elevation, fashion (and in particular campaign imagery) is doomed to a short life span per se.
/HORST

Image credits Cindy Sherman, Steven Meisel

The Camp Of Plagiarism

a) Mona Lisa, 1504-1518
 

b) Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, 1862


c) Gabrielle d’Estrées et une de ses soeurs, 1594
Mario Sorrenti for Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 1999

In few cases, copying induces in beautiful plagiarism. We are all aware of the original masterpiece and still there is a noticeable, very attractive element of intrude. Adding a certain something that doesn't belong to the iconic image.
/HORST

Post Paris XVII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2012

1. Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2010 campaign
2. Ann-Sofie Back Spring/Summer 2011
3. Justin Timberlake for Rolling Stone

After his signature muddiness and a re-orientation towards crisp minimalsim, Rick Owens celebrates wetlook. Shiny surfaces that either imply polymer fabrications or simple wetness. Both conclusions are highly satisfying.
/HORST

Fragility

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 1991
2. Byblos Spring-Summer 1999
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2000
4. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

The advertising world is a self-referential one. Motives are subtly implied, borrowed, copied and re-introduced. Jil Sander and the image of 'broken glass'. Let he who is without sin cast the first stone.
/HORST

Nudist Camp V

1. Jared French The Double, circa 1950
2. Steven Klein Games and Restrictions, 2008
3. DSquared Fall/Winter 2010 campaign

Obscene pool scenes and the exposed pale male. The thewy object of public stare. Interestingly, the voyeuristic composition always includes rails or poles. We leave any interpretation to the beholder and recommand a closer look at this reproduction.
/HORST

Licensed To Death

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, British Vogue, March 1998
2. Menswear Fall/Winter 2011
3. Vivien Solari for Calvin Klein Eyewear

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Harper's Bazaar, March 1998
2. Lara Stone by Mert & Marcus for Fall/Winter 2010
3. Menswear Spring/Summer 2009

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Vanity Fair, March 1998
2. Amy Wesson for Calvin Klein collection
3. Menswear Fall/Winter 2009

A philosophical question for the 1st of January 2012: Why is there such a depressing contradiction between the severely strong 'image' of Calvin Klein collection and the reality we are confronted with on shop floors?
/HORST

Laced Up III

Dior Fall/Winter 2002 & 2003

If I were a girl. Luckily for you and the rest of the world, I am not. Otherwise I'll throw myself into a pair of black, skin-tight, laced leather pants. But maybe you should?
/HORST

Laced Up

1. Gucci Spring/Summer 1996
2. Carlos Diez Spring/Summer 2012

Once you wear tribal, taking the next step does only seem logical. Now I want a laced front top. Just as proclaimed by the male shopping mall discount mainstream. Any suggestions?
/HORST

The Craft III

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2010
2. Jamie Hawkesworth for Hero Magazine
3. Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2012
4. Bruno Staub for i-D Magazine
5. Dior Spring/Summer 2001
6. D&G Fall/Winter 2011

From graffiti (part I) to typography (part II) to text collages. The assemblage of the recycled remains of our culture. Fragmented quotes, multiplied deranged messages. Copy and paste till death will tear us apart.
/HORST

Triple Effect

Versace vs. Giuliano Fujiwara

Continuous partial attention (CPA) is the process of paying simultaneous attention to a number of sources of incoming information, but at a superficial level. It usually involves skimming the surface of the incoming data, picking out the relevant details, and moving on to the next stream.
/HORST

Into The Fold

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2009 by Willy Vanderperre
2. Paper Drop (Roma) 2007 by Wolfgang Tillmans

I might have found the perfect apartment. Located in the red light district. Stuccoed ceiling, parquet floor, double wing doors. Theme of the first dinner party: 'I met Jil Sander at a gallery opening'.
/HORST

Pastel Strip Fight

Lanvin Fall/Winter 2003 vs. Imi Knoebel

Zippers, belts and safety straps. Sticks, gaps and overlaps. It is rather hypnotizing to see minimalism grow in complexity. And following the functional in becoming decorative. As if there wasn't a contradiction by definition.
/HORST

Iconographic Omen

1. Riccardo Tisci by Steven Klein
2. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2011
3. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2002

Why the rottweiler? Riccardo Tisci explains: 'In spite of the fact that everyone thinks I am very much a rottweiler — that I am very dark and everything — I have a side that is very romantic that I show to very few people.' Interestingly enough, the quadruped already appeared before Tisci took on his legacy.
/HORST

Quote via Interview Magazine