Balenciaga Questions XVI

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2012
2. J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2012

Back to London. J.W. Anderson chose s silhouette reminescent of an almost religious Balenciaga woman, altering between witch, high priestess and apocalyptic nun. Her eyes hidden, her robe created of hyper technologic fabrics.
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Balenciaga Questions XIV

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2012
2. Topshop Unique Fall/Winter 2012

The hotpant and the boxy jacket. Forming the image of high performance courier girls. Always on the run, always striving for being first. Yet, everything has been done before, has been attempted already.
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Balenciaga Questions XIII

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2011
2. Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2012

A skirt is cut in stiff, overlapping leather panels. A classic shirt is added, fixated with a belt that optically pierces the front. Just an observation. One can either love it or leave it.
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Balenciaga Questions XII

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2009
2. Ports 1961 Fall/Winter 2012

Some collections appear as a congregation of Balenciaga stencils. Traced and re-assembled throughout various looks, the result is avoiding evident relation to its original source. The re-contextualization of Nicolas Ghesquière.
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Balenciaga Questions XI

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2008
2. Mary Katrantzou Fall/Winter 2012

And yes, also the visually opulent, the post-Baroque hourglass puppet dress has existed before. Dipped in metallic pastels and endowed with filigree, romantic details, the versions of Mary and Nicolas don't differ much.
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Balenciaga Questions X

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008
2. Pringle of Scotland Fall/Winter 2012

It's a study in proportion and codes of gender. Introducing the concept of the boyfriend's blazer, Ghesquière uses dropped shoulders and boxy cuts to shape a square upper body, and to develop the legacy of 80s power dressing further.
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Balenciaga Questions IX

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2003
2. Peter Pilotto Fall/Winter 2012

It may not always be about the identical, but an inherent notion of similarity. Nicolas Ghesquière is a mathematician, logically constructing garments by placing different textiles and alternating prints. Peter Pilotto does agree.
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Balenciaga Questions VIII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008
2. Acne Fall/Winter 2012

The Balenciaga look constitutes itself of shape, proportion and material. Ghesquière's combination results in an almost aggressive approach towards the hard, stiff and anti-feminine. His idea seems to have arrived.
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Balenciaga Questions VII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
2. Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2012

Once again, the presentations of London Fashion Week have attracted attention for their close reference to Nicolas Ghesquière. Possibly unwanted yet comprehensively, strong names of their own right dare to recreate the Balenciaga look. Blatant copy or identity crisis? A (subjective) examination of facts and evidence.
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Couples

1. Céline Spring/Summer 2012
2. Matthew Miller Spring/Summer 2012

The horizontal block stripe, white on white. A belted waist. While he is wearing layered shorts, she sports a deconstructed version of skirt-like flaps. A perfect couple has many things in common, yet shows differential characteristics.
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Image credits Catwalking

Tinfoil Confection

Nicomede Talavera Graduate Collection

Obviously, my heart is struck by a fluorescent pair of trousers. It's like unwrapping a piece of ice chocolate pralinés. Just better. Without the calories and sticky fingers. Just eye candy.
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Via New Male Fashion

Restrictedly Available

Campaign JOSEFLAZO shirt

A new line, available over phone only. Five minimalist versions of the dress shirt. Handmade in London. Reversing the Savile Row tradition, appointments for a made-to-measure garment are made via hotline. And it's affordable, too. Call now.
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Kiss

J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2011

This collection was made to be loved by me. And we all'll have to wrap ourselves in fluffy knitwear. Caressing our New Bohemian tip-to-toe paisley uniform. Completed by a contrasting rubber band cummerbund.
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Image credits Catwalking

Serving Fish?

Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2011

Is that gel pads? Yes it is! Reworked in the most delicate sci-fi mermaid manner. When looking back at London Fashion Week so far, it is no wonder Mister Kane is hyped. And deservedly so.
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Bittersweet Contradictions

Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2011

It's a small step from tribal to ornamental. And that's why I love Martine Rose. Accomplishing the task of melding the kinky and the romantic. And yes, I want those chaps my dear!
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Taxidermied Idolatry

Steve Bishop Christian Dior - J'adore (Mountain Goat), 2008
Taxidermied goat, concrete, chalk


Steve Bishop Jean-Paul Gaultier - Classique (Arctic Fox), 2008
Taxidermied fox, concrete, paint

The living and the breathless. Overlapping. Embodiments of object and creature. And in its centre: figurative perfume bottles. Animalistic scented sculptures.
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British Art Now II, October 27 - April 17 2011, Saatchi Gallery, London

Career Woman

Victoria Stone Graduate collection

Asymmetry and disproportion. The power suit has undergone a mental change. Dissolving in certain areas while heightening in others. Confused and inappropriate in a strinking manner.
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