Sherman Questions V

1. Cindy Sherman Untitled, 2000
2. Givenchy Spring/Summer 2011

The sinister side of Sherman is perpetuated by the self-portrait of a red haired woman in a black negligée, presumptive inhabitant of a trailer park (where suburban Grunge and Goth meet). If Sherman's woman is a rich, subversive beast, her character would wear Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci.
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Image credits Cindy Sherman, Catwalking

Balenciaga Questions XV

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
2. Alexander Wang Fall/Winter 2012

The Balenciaga phenomenon has also reached and affected New York Fashion Week. Alexander Wang showed a collecton that didn't work with mirrored Balenciaga twin looks but an overall mood that felt very Ghesquière-esque. Brutalist shapes, stiff structures and complex panelling.
/HORST

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Balenciaga Questions VIII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008
2. Acne Fall/Winter 2012

The Balenciaga look constitutes itself of shape, proportion and material. Ghesquière's combination results in an almost aggressive approach towards the hard, stiff and anti-feminine. His idea seems to have arrived.
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Macrosection Specimen

T-shirt Maison Martin Margiela
Jeans Cheap Monday
Brooch Ann Demeulemeester

Four stitches, cross lacing and a pin. Manual techniques that emphasize the craft, the detail and the production process. Carefully leading one's view to the centrepiece, a polished black crystal.
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Couples II

1. Anthony Vaccarello Spring/Summer 2012
2. Yiqing Yin Spring/Summer 2012

The 'cut and paste' dress. Two versions. One defined by sharp and severe lines, the other recurring in a haphazard gesture. Details that define a woman, pending between perfectionist glamour girl and goth amazon.
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Image credits Catwalking

Post Paris XV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2012

1. Heather and Ivan Morison Black Pig Lodge, 2011
2. Michael Jackson feat. Janet Jackson Scream, 1995
3. Jean Tinguely Relief Méta-Mécanique Sonore II, 1955

A collection that succeeds where others fail. The programmatic approach to texture manipulation results in a 3D pyramid layer created of multiple triangles that partly protrude with each movement and reflect not only light but aesthetic history.
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Post Paris XIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

1. Philippe Starck Gnome Table
2. Undefined furry object
3. Steven Meisel Vogue Italia, 1992

A collection of gnomes. An army almost. And they exclusively wear shorts in winter. Ironically, it is not a joke. So we are left with one choice: Commit to the ludicrous in all seriousness. Or have a laugh.
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Bootylicious II

Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

With its haptic, optically challenging 3D structure, the original Fall/Winter 2008 version became my dearest everyday uniform. Now, the Raf Simons running shoe returns. It has been wishfully awaited.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Bootylicious

Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2012

Although minimalist at heart, I tend to fall for visually busy and complicated footgear: multi-laced and multi-strapped. With its reduced architecture and hidden closure construction, this version succeeds in uniting the best of both extremes.
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Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights V

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2005

'Wave Transmission' front print.
Lace-up side construction.
Raf Simons for Avantgarde.
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Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights IV

Raf Simons Fall/Winter 1998

Polyamide and lycra top.
Black and charcoal pinstripes.
Raw edges.
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Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights

Raf Simons Archives Collection

Cotton front, neoprene back.
Deconstructed pockets.
Non-commercial item, non-specific season.
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Reciprocity

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

Touching one of fashion's most relevant and recurrent topics, the black and shiny is multiplied in material and form. The result: Serial killer duplicants dressed head-to-heel in periodic leather. The question: Is Jil the new Raf?
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Image credits Catwalking

La Fin

1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2012
2. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2005

If we were celebrating New Year's together tonight, I'd be wearing this outfit for you. Happy new year to everyone. May all your wishes be fulfilled. Leave me your desires for 2012 below.
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When Did We Forget About Black Minimalism III

1. Margaret Howell Clash Magazine editorial
2. Michael Landy Fresh Hell

I always loved the horizontal fragmentation of the human corpus. Neck, chest, waist and arms, all divided into separate structured parts. A black turtleneck, a belted waist, a pulled-up sleeve.
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When Did We Forget About Black Minimalism II

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2007
2. Daniel Turner Untitled 5150

Besides its soothing quality, black material appeals due to its manifold fetishistic dimensions. Black leather, black vinyl. The artist, the teacher and the architect. Altogether chased by their sexual instinct and intentions. Myself included.
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When Did We Forget About Black Minimalism

1. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004
2. Ecole Floating Staircase

When I look up, facing my vis-à-vis, and the person is dressed in black my eyes can rest. I can fully focus and concentrate on the spoken word. Black minimalism gives us comfort, easiness and freedom. We should do it more often.
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Beltium

1. Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2011
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2006

The next thing I want is a cummerbund. And I wanna wear it everyday. Sometimes I wish life was a fashion editorial. And everyone would just dare to wear their heart on the outside.
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