Reassembled Resemblance

1. Jocelyn Hobbie
2. Kathy Butterly

What I like about this combination is the meatiness that transcends from fine art to deconstructed ceramics. These compositions almost leave the feeling of perfect bodies melting into undefinable structures.
/HORST

Attention Fragile

Kenji Kawasumi CSM Graduate Collection

I love the perfectly unfinnished, provisional. Reminescent of moving blankets, the grainy fabric structure feels like a ready-made brought into hourglass shape. Bare legs and arms underline this element of flawless flux.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Bootylicious II

Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

With its haptic, optically challenging 3D structure, the original Fall/Winter 2008 version became my dearest everyday uniform. Now, the Raf Simons running shoe returns. It has been wishfully awaited.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Granularity

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 1998
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2006, Fall/Winter 2008 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
4. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
5. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2008 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. The grainy knit reappears throughout the seasons, varying in shades of pale yellow into deep hues of moss green and bright cyan. Variations of one theme. The singular product, a limited edition of serial mass production.
/HORST

Paranormal Stroke Fight

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2008 vs. Trompe l'œil installation

Floating strokes creating 3D illusions of a high-gloss surface. A visual hybrid of stiff plastic and reflective metal. Floating strokes haphazardly taking over the space while the result feels impossible.
/HORST

Evolution

1. Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2012

2. Lebbeus Woods Radical Reconstruction, 1997

3. Roderick Hietbrink The Others, 2011



Interstellar clouds have been replaced by dystopian tube structures. The living organism covered in metallic stretch velvet. In an absurd surrounding, the ironic remains. Survival of the fittest.

/HORST

Pastel Strip Fight

Lanvin Fall/Winter 2003 vs. Imi Knoebel

Zippers, belts and safety straps. Sticks, gaps and overlaps. It is rather hypnotizing to see minimalism grow in complexity. And following the functional in becoming decorative. As if there wasn't a contradiction by definition.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions V

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2004
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2009

One more time. Another fictitious example of Simons x Ghesquière. The latter took over the house of Balenciaga at the age of 25 in 1997. He is history. And he is cute. Maybe Nicolas is the best of them all?
/HORST

Miusing Escher III

1. Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2011
2. M. C. Escher Rippled Surface, 1950

The similarities might appear very abstract. But once watching the campaign movie Muta, the implication of rippled water becomes self-evident. Eventually, we see the exact same image. Twice.
/HORST

Serialization

1. Maison Martin Margiela Tokyo Store
2. Brian Jungen Cetology, 2002

A rail of luxury items in a sterilized surrounding. Artefacts of mass market production reworked into prehistoricalist sculptures. Hold together by the linear order of our culture's white spine.
/HORST

Phallic Masculinity

1. Gianni Versace 1993
2. Jeff Laudenslager

If you open your shirt, structures are unveiled. If you wear short shorts, three-dimensional altitudes appear. If you combine the round and soft with the square and hard, you are a black and white striped sculpture in a silk shirt.
/HORST

Eternal Rivalry

Céline Fall/Winter 2011 vs. Arjan Janssen

I'll have to admit: she did it again. Women become a piece of art. The kind of art that will remain for decades. Decent garments with relevance that won't seek visual competition with their wearer.
/HORST