Friday, September 30, 2011

A Short History Of Stripes In Popular Culture II

1. Yohji Yamamoto
2. Cocky Eek Folkert
3. COD by Rami Tareef
4. Wayne Spring/Summer 2012
5. Pierre Soulages

The dynamic stripe: Placed in various directions, this typology creates three-dimensional movement out of the plain surface. The irregularity creates intricate meanders. Calculated chaos as the principle of mathematic composition.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Orpheus & Eurydike

Wayne Spring/Summer 2012

Before diving into the realms of Paris Fashion Week, one should look back, pause for a moment, look closely, notice and appreciate the potentially overseen, the possibly good. She is ascending.

Image credits Catwalking

Monday, September 26, 2011


1. Paul McCarthy Dick and Vagina, 1998
2. Akira Akira Spillberg, 2006

The act of relief. Time for relief. In preliminary review Fashion Week gave us vegetable prints and a lot of plastic, no orgasms. Once again, our hopes lie upon Parisian shoulders.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Gaultier Questions VI

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011
2. Jean-Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 1989

Two women. Greedy eyes resting upon them. Their beautiful faces framed by streamlined ski hats. Both accompanied by the provoking touch of gloss. Who are they? Where are they going? What is their origin?

Gaultier Questions V

1. Meadham Kirchhoff Fall/Winter 2010
2. Jean-Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2003

Once upon a time. A story about princesses and queens. They both love glitter and drama. Dressing up, hidding their identity behind the veils of mysticism. But how does the story truly end?

Gaultier Questions IV

1. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011
2. Jean-Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 1989

What goes around, comes around. Pleated skirts, metallic jackets. Dance uniforms and wrestling costumes. The shapes familiar, the opposition identical, the resonant voice ironical?

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Gaultier Questions III

1. Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1993
2. Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2011

Jean-Paul and Ann. Neither one, nor another. Coincidentally tied together. On their very own, both results explore the concept of revelation. Who has superiorly mastered the principle?

Gaultier Questions II

1. Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1993
2. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009

The work of Jean-Paul Gaultier slowly develops its brilliancy. First shockingly bright, then vivid and reflexive. Just like a golden blonde hair colouration. Conditioner included. Who doesn't love a fake natural blonde?

Friday, September 23, 2011

Gaultier Questions

1. Jean-Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 1991
2. Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2009

For this series, the pairing of images does not implicate the process of replication, duplication or copying. Rather, it identifies related ideas and their processing into connatural garments. Thoughts?

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

The Missing Piece

1. Esther Stocker
2. Maison Martin Margiela Waistcoat by Willy Vanderperre
3. Zak Prekop

One day, some things will be rememembered and others will be forgotten. Cultures have disappeared. And still, cultures are driven by the sincere attempt to beat the natural system of death. Artistic production as self-recreation.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Happiness Factory

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2012 & Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010

Everyone smiled. Even Anna Wintour. So there is a rumour: Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff will take on Dior. Balloons, candy, roses. Frills, lace, organza. Powder, glitter, rainbows. Thoughts?

Monday, September 19, 2011

Ex-Post Integration

Hooded shirt Raf Simons
Leopard top Givenchy
Trousers Laitinen
Shoes Doc Martens

We will do it again. Sleeve under rolled-up sleeve. Hoodie under shirt. My system did not allow it. The option was completely banned. Until now. And it feels better than before.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Late Adopter

Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2009

Quick cry for help. Where can I (still) get these utterly adorable toe-printed shoes? Better late than never. Any advice will be worshipped with an air kiss and endless thankfulness.

Hero Worship

Part 16: Devon Aoki

Photos Sean & Seng, Paolo Roversi

The über-model and eternal baby doll. Non-geisha, non-virgin, muse. Sad red lips, white porcelain skin. The face of the nineties and the face of tomorrow. Greatness.

Saturday, September 17, 2011


Ann-Sofie Back Atelje Spring/Summer 2012

And again, she defines fashion. Probably the most underrated designer of our times, every detail is exactly what it is meant to be. Every element, every shape. The ultimate balance of neglect and restraint.

Friday, September 16, 2011

A Short History Of Dilettantism In Popular Culture

1. Jonathan Meese All works, 1998-2011
2. Kelly Rowland Solo career, 2002-2011
3. The Real Housewives of New York City All episodes, 2008-2011
4. German Vogue All issues, 2003-2011
5. Michael Kors All collections, 1981-2011

Banality, dysfunction, rubbish. Low quality productions, loaded with calculated pretentiousness. The manqué product, as part of a continuous cycle called 'culture', will quickly be replaced and forgotten. A quick last view at the flux of failure.