Monday, January 30, 2012

Born Slippy

Bomber jacket Motorking by Michiko Koshino
Suit jacket Whyred
Mesh tank Helmut Lang
Coin necklace Ann Demeulemeester
Leather jeans H&M

Following the tradion of David Bowie, Moby, Placebo, Natalie Imbruglia and the Spice Girls, I chose a Michiko Koshino archive piece for my latest performance in mesh, rubber and leather.

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Nondisposable II

Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2012

The trash bag and the walking duvet. Two themes, repeatedly connected with fashion and, more precisely, the idea of the ultimate winter coat. Emphasizing the embrace of the vinyl coated.

Saturday, January 28, 2012


Laitinen Fall/Winter 2012

Touching on the glossy subject of polyamide plastic, the Laitinen suit is unexpectedly introduced to a tailored outerwear shell. Underneath, shirt and trousers reveal traces of mineral acid, as they remain unprotected parts. May it always rain.

Friday, January 27, 2012

Post Paris XV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2012

1. Heather and Ivan Morison Black Pig Lodge, 2011
2. Michael Jackson feat. Janet Jackson Scream, 1995
3. Jean Tinguely Relief Méta-Mécanique Sonore II, 1955

A collection that succeeds where others fail. The programmatic approach to texture manipulation results in a 3D pyramid layer created of multiple triangles that partly protrude with each movement and reflect not only light but aesthetic history.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Post Paris XIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

1. Philippe Starck Gnome Table
2. Undefined furry object
3. Steven Meisel Vogue Italia, 1992

A collection of gnomes. An army almost. And they exclusively wear shorts in winter. Ironically, it is not a joke. So we are left with one choice: Commit to the ludicrous in all seriousness. Or have a laugh.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Post Paris XIII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Juun J. Fall/Winter 2012

1. Björk Homogenic 1997
2. Eiko Ishioka Faye Dunaway for Parco
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007

Following the visual path of the cryptic 'ikon', the geometric shape of the triangle reveals itself as a remarkable similarity. Collar, bow and cleavage depict a deep plunging V that recurs in a white shirt, layered underneath the referential print.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Bootylicious II

Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

With its haptic, optically challenging 3D structure, the original Fall/Winter 2008 version became my dearest everyday uniform. Now, the Raf Simons running shoe returns. It has been wishfully awaited.

Image credits

Monday, January 23, 2012


Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2012

Although minimalist at heart, I tend to fall for visually busy and complicated footgear: multi-laced and multi-strapped. With its reduced architecture and hidden closure construction, this version succeeds in uniting the best of both extremes.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

The Craft VI

1. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012
2. Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2003
3. Comme des Garçons Shirt Fall/Winter 2012
4. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2007
5. Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2002

Death threat letters from Rei and Junya. While Rei combines letters, numbers and conspirative signs and places them onto canvases of androygnous cuts, she manufactures the visual element of shock that has always succeeded so well. In the meanwhile, Junya prepares scissor and newspapers.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights V

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2005

'Wave Transmission' front print.
Lace-up side construction.
Raf Simons for Avantgarde.

Heart Arrhythmia

Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2012

So beautiful. My goddess, I want it all. Elongated, slim cuts; gradients, black and white graphics. Such a clear language, so precise. A turtleneck knit dress, blue silk trousers; the minimalist reawakening of Ann Demeulemeester.

Friday, January 20, 2012

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights IV

Raf Simons Fall/Winter 1998

Polyamide and lycra top.
Black and charcoal pinstripes.
Raw edges.

The Craft V

1. Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2012
2. Moschino Fall/Winter 2012

I am a little bit in love with the fact that my projections turned out quite right. Two examples of re-establishing graffiti, and oneself. A splendid specimen of crafted naïvety. Congratulation to Gijs Frieling.