The Craft III

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2010
2. Jamie Hawkesworth for Hero Magazine
3. Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2012
4. Bruno Staub for i-D Magazine
5. Dior Spring/Summer 2001
6. D&G Fall/Winter 2011

From graffiti (part I) to typography (part II) to text collages. The assemblage of the recycled remains of our culture. Fragmented quotes, multiplied deranged messages. Copy and paste till death will tear us apart.
/HORST

The Burberry Miu Scandal

Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2012 vs. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2005



Presumably, the scandal series will find a new climax every season. And most probably, the cast will always feature familiar names. But in the end, that's what we love about sequels. Same same but different. And Miuccia will always win.

/HORST

Pattern Issues

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

2. Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2008



Indeed, I felt a bit let down by the latest Raf Simons proposal. His design signature got transferred into the Jil Sander brand. And vice versa. This exchange may be a strategically intelligent thing to do. As long as it presents a relevant addition itself.

/HORST



See also Munich Pattern Explosion

Balenciaga Questions VI

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2004
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2009

And what happens when the DNA of Balenciaga is injected into menswear? The suit eventually becomes something else. Brutal shoulder proportions and feminine hourglass waists.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions V

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2004
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2009

One more time. Another fictitious example of Simons x Ghesquière. The latter took over the house of Balenciaga at the age of 25 in 1997. He is history. And he is cute. Maybe Nicolas is the best of them all?
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions IV

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2004
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2008

Raf Simons undoubtedly shows apprecciation for Nicolas Ghesquière. Wouldn't these two make a beautiful couple, respectively team? Simons x Ghesquière. Wouldn't it be nice?
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions III

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2003
2. Louise Goldin Fall/Winter 2010

Maybe unofficially, Fall/Winter 2010 has been declared a post-Balenciaga season? A London tribute to the Parisian house? The subliminal Transformers quote becomes literal meaning itself.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions II

1. Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2006
2. Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2010

Strictly speaking, we do not see a mere copy here. Instead, ornamental flower arrangements in white, blue and yellow are substitues for graphic compositions in white, blue and yellow.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2003
2. Burberry Fall/Winter 2010

The master and the slave. Where is the fine line between inspiration and copy? Does an impression become a memory that recurs again during a moment of creation? Is referring an unconscious process?
/HORST

The Farhi Simons Scandal

Nicole Farhi Spring/Summer 2012 vs. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2011 & 2008

As the previous Farhi scandals have been quite easy to grasp, this one takes on complexity and merges various Raf Simons collections. Mere copy or honest tribute? Who will be throwing the first stone?
/HORST

See also The Farhi Sander Scandal and The Burberry Prada Scandal