Straps & Strings III

‘A Young Man of Extraordinary Personal Beauty’ by Willy Vanderperre for Arena Homme+

While it remains a purely functional means to some of us, the strapped continuously evokes desires for more of less to others. Contemporary fantasies of exhibitionist might include the strapped neck halter coat.
/HORST

Straps & Strings II

1. 'Heat Wave' by Gregory Harris for Intermission Spring/Summer 2011
2. Unknown

Assuming that the best part about dressing is leaving parts undressed, or implying the idea of already being undressing again, the strapped-on garment inherits complex values of attraction.
/HORST

Split Screen

All clothes Bruno Pieters for Weekday

A monochrome outside world below zero degrees. Washed stone, snow-covered concrete, traces of road salt. A scenery of grey, white and beige. Acclimatization as survival of the fittest.
/HORST

Nondisposable II

Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2012

The trash bag and the walking duvet. Two themes, repeatedly connected with fashion and, more precisely, the idea of the ultimate winter coat. Emphasizing the embrace of the vinyl coated.
/HORST

Post Paris XV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2012

1. Heather and Ivan Morison Black Pig Lodge, 2011
2. Michael Jackson feat. Janet Jackson Scream, 1995
3. Jean Tinguely Relief Méta-Mécanique Sonore II, 1955

A collection that succeeds where others fail. The programmatic approach to texture manipulation results in a 3D pyramid layer created of multiple triangles that partly protrude with each movement and reflect not only light but aesthetic history.
/HORST

Post Paris XIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

1. Philippe Starck Gnome Table
2. Undefined furry object
3. Steven Meisel Vogue Italia, 1992

A collection of gnomes. An army almost. And they exclusively wear shorts in winter. Ironically, it is not a joke. So we are left with one choice: Commit to the ludicrous in all seriousness. Or have a laugh.
/HORST

Reciprocity

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

Touching one of fashion's most relevant and recurrent topics, the black and shiny is multiplied in material and form. The result: Serial killer duplicants dressed head-to-heel in periodic leather. The question: Is Jil the new Raf?
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Walking Duvets II

Photos Junya Watanabe, Viktor & Rolf, Suzuki Takayuki & various unknown sources

It has been prognosed almost exactly two years ago. We desire their existence. Transforming our favourite nighttime place into our favourite daytime garment. They will return.
/HORST

Post Paris II

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Second chapter: Céline

1. Céline Spring/Summer 2012
2. Sand Paper
3. Versailles inspired carpet

Plywood seating and the smell of freshly manipulated wood. While the rough surface of sand paper softens its edges, the crispy structure reappears as 3D carpet ornaments on hourglass-shaped coats. Click on the runway image for closer inspection.
/HORST

Postmodern Gloss

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2012



To be honest, this collection looked as if a number of graduate students had been given four looks each, labelling it all Lanvin. One hot mess. Yet, the person responsible for the results shown above should be vaunted.

/HORST

Pattern Issues

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012

2. Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2008



Indeed, I felt a bit let down by the latest Raf Simons proposal. His design signature got transferred into the Jil Sander brand. And vice versa. This exchange may be a strategically intelligent thing to do. As long as it presents a relevant addition itself.

/HORST



See also Munich Pattern Explosion

Urban Traumata

Photos Unknown



Why do people fear the city and dress in utility wear once they leave their house? Are they expecting sudden earthquakes or sand storms? Or is it a mental phenomenon of a generation threatened by the turn of the 20th century? Sadly, they don't compensate their desire for protection as pictured above.

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Detect

Lanvin Fall/Winter 2011

While compiling my fall wishlist and fictive wardrobe, I realized the Ossendrijver outdoor attire feels quite right. Ideally, I'll just layer up my summer coat with a nylon bomber.
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Raf Sander

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

I'm feeling it. Like totally. I mean. 2012 is going to be a Raf Sander year. It is about the shape as predicted. The square thing around a boys neck. Coloured python and plastic raincoats. Bananas.
/HORST

Tinfoil Confection

Nicomede Talavera Graduate Collection

Obviously, my heart is struck by a fluorescent pair of trousers. It's like unwrapping a piece of ice chocolate pralinés. Just better. Without the calories and sticky fingers. Just eye candy.
/HORST

Via New Male Fashion