Poignant Surrender

1. 'Helmut Lang 10 Year Tribute' by Terry Richardson for Arena Homme +
2. Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2012
3. 'Andi Loves Me Not' by Mark Rabadan

You got chain mail. Stefano Pilati presumably sent us the softest translation of a very hard idea. Thus submitting his final offer of seduction. The heartbreaking conclusion of a never-ending fight for acceptance and acknowledgement.
/HORST

Between Prostitutes

1. David Salle vs. Acne Fall/Winter 2012
2. David Salle vs. Lanvin Fall/Winter 2012
3. David Salle vs. A.F. Vandevorst Fall/Winter 2012

Since I moved to the red light district, the artworks of David Salle felt rather appropriate. The compositions shown reflect a current state of mind. Striptease and runway presentations synchronized in split screen manner. Things happen simultaneously.
/HORST

Forgotten Persoons

Clothes Jurgi Persoons
Photograms Laszlo Moholy-Nagy

And suddenly there was Jurgi Persoons. Within the (too) short time span of 1997 to 2003, the unavowed Antwerp locum introduced clothes for 'anorectic, rich and lazy young girls'. His broken minimalism still merits recognition.
/HORST

Post Paris XIII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Juun J. Fall/Winter 2012

1. Björk Homogenic 1997
2. Eiko Ishioka Faye Dunaway for Parco
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007

Following the visual path of the cryptic 'ikon', the geometric shape of the triangle reveals itself as a remarkable similarity. Collar, bow and cleavage depict a deep plunging V that recurs in a white shirt, layered underneath the referential print.
/HORST

The Craft VI

1. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012
2. Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2003
3. Comme des Garçons Shirt Fall/Winter 2012
4. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2007
5. Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2002

Death threat letters from Rei and Junya. While Rei combines letters, numbers and conspirative signs and places them onto canvases of androygnous cuts, she manufactures the visual element of shock that has always succeeded so well. In the meanwhile, Junya prepares scissor and newspapers.
/HORST

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights V

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2005

'Wave Transmission' front print.
Lace-up side construction.
Raf Simons for Avantgarde.
/HORST

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights IV

Raf Simons Fall/Winter 1998

Polyamide and lycra top.
Black and charcoal pinstripes.
Raw edges.
/HORST

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights II

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009

Hidden black contrast zip.
Beige linen.
Sleeveless by definition.
/HORST

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights

Raf Simons Archives Collection

Cotton front, neoprene back.
Deconstructed pockets.
Non-commercial item, non-specific season.
/HORST

The Craft III

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2010
2. Jamie Hawkesworth for Hero Magazine
3. Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2012
4. Bruno Staub for i-D Magazine
5. Dior Spring/Summer 2001
6. D&G Fall/Winter 2011

From graffiti (part I) to typography (part II) to text collages. The assemblage of the recycled remains of our culture. Fragmented quotes, multiplied deranged messages. Copy and paste till death will tear us apart.
/HORST