Forbidden Love IX

1. Undercover editiorial
2. Walter Van Beirendonck by Ronald Stoops
3. Devok Aoki, i-D April 2002

Tribal becomes the most extreme when applied to one's face. In that context, we may refer to Cher's character in Burlesque: 'When you are painting on makeup, you are like an artist, but instead of painting a canvas, you're painting a face.'
/HORST

View all parts of Forbidden Love

Poignant Surrender

1. 'Helmut Lang 10 Year Tribute' by Terry Richardson for Arena Homme +
2. Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2012
3. 'Andi Loves Me Not' by Mark Rabadan

You got chain mail. Stefano Pilati presumably sent us the softest translation of a very hard idea. Thus submitting his final offer of seduction. The heartbreaking conclusion of a never-ending fight for acceptance and acknowledgement.
/HORST

Forgotten Persoons

Clothes Jurgi Persoons
Photograms Laszlo Moholy-Nagy

And suddenly there was Jurgi Persoons. Within the (too) short time span of 1997 to 2003, the unavowed Antwerp locum introduced clothes for 'anorectic, rich and lazy young girls'. His broken minimalism still merits recognition.
/HORST

Licensed To Death

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, British Vogue, March 1998
2. Menswear Fall/Winter 2011
3. Vivien Solari for Calvin Klein Eyewear

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Harper's Bazaar, March 1998
2. Lara Stone by Mert & Marcus for Fall/Winter 2010
3. Menswear Spring/Summer 2009

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Vanity Fair, March 1998
2. Amy Wesson for Calvin Klein collection
3. Menswear Fall/Winter 2009

A philosophical question for the 1st of January 2012: Why is there such a depressing contradiction between the severely strong 'image' of Calvin Klein collection and the reality we are confronted with on shop floors?
/HORST

Overhead

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2001, Prada Fall/Winter 2011 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 & Gucci Spring/Summer 1995
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
4. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 & Alex Katz The Blue Umbrella
4. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2005 & Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1990

I've kept it to myself for quite a while now, but the psychological pressure got too intense. I cannot deny nor hold it back any longer. The hood is back. Floral paisley for her, apocalyptic protection for him.
/HORST

Laced Up III

Dior Fall/Winter 2002 & 2003

If I were a girl. Luckily for you and the rest of the world, I am not. Otherwise I'll throw myself into a pair of black, skin-tight, laced leather pants. But maybe you should?
/HORST

The Craft III

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2010
2. Jamie Hawkesworth for Hero Magazine
3. Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2012
4. Bruno Staub for i-D Magazine
5. Dior Spring/Summer 2001
6. D&G Fall/Winter 2011

From graffiti (part I) to typography (part II) to text collages. The assemblage of the recycled remains of our culture. Fragmented quotes, multiplied deranged messages. Copy and paste till death will tear us apart.
/HORST

Obviously

1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
2. Helmut Lang Halloween T-Shirt 2003

A tribute by Raf to Helmut. Bold letters indicating the product's exact chronological and cultural context. A numeric catalogue entry. I want every single piece from that collection.
/HORST

Pristine Era

Hermès Fall/Winter 1998 - 2003

Interestingly, Martin Margiela has been working with Hermès from 1998 to 2004. It allows us to witness his approach to tailoring before the essential act of deconstruction. The graphic sartorialist.
/HORST