The Craft VII

a) letters



b) layers


c) leaps

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009
2. Mihara Yashuhiro Spring/Summer 2012
3. Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2008

Fragments and separated letters, spread over garments. Once layered onto each other, they become complete. In few cases, they even evolve into full grammatical statements, sentences or even political messages.
/HORST

Dalí's Dolls

1. Surrealist Exhibition, Paris 1938
2. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2009
2. Vogue Cover, April 1944
3. Portrait by George Platt Lynes

Handsome young Dalí and his mannequin. Foam wigs and breast cutouts. The former Rei Kawakubo? Vogue cover and lobster bikini. How would his hypothetical Spring/Summer 2013 collection look like?
/HORST

Sleeveless Minds, Sleepless Nights II

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009

Hidden black contrast zip.
Beige linen.
Sleeveless by definition.
/HORST

Pierced Souls

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2009

When an idea of 1990s youth culture is reborn and reshaped. Thin, elongated and richly embellished with crystals and pearls. Instable, light structures that reawaken the desire for belly piercings.
/HORST

Nacreous Lustre

1. Sean & Seng Numéro September 2011
2. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009

I'd like to remind everyone that there are garments endorsed with small square or circular elements that reflect the light. And they would like to be worn. More often. By women and most definitely by men.
/HORST

Gaultier Questions II

1. Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1993
2. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009

The work of Jean-Paul Gaultier slowly develops its brilliancy. First shockingly bright, then vivid and reflexive. Just like a golden blonde hair colouration. Conditioner included. Who doesn't love a fake natural blonde?
/HORST

Bespoken

Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2009

Herewith, I strictly request the instant re-manufacturing and subsequent delivery. The look shown above may be your command. And I will happily agree to wear nothing else in future and forever.
/HORST

Minor Royalty

Number (N)ine Spring/Summer 2009

Post-medieval insanity. Albino princes in strait jackets. Which brings up the longing to bleach my hair and dress in creme and white. From head to toe. Or to hunt for a Number (N)ine archive piece.
/HORST

Stud Safari

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2009

Still in love with this collection. Especially today when temperatures hit high. Evoking the image of sweltry hot desert nights. Muscular nomads sleeping in white tents. Wearing nothing but the tattoos on their skin and lace shorts.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Clearing

Prada Spring/Summer 2009

Everyone who feels harassed by my penetration of transparent coats of any kind is allowed to scream out loud. Now. But I had to do this. For Jasper. And for myself. And for Miuccia.
/HORST

Strawberry Swirl

Rodarte Spring/Summer 2009

Devendra Banhart in Rodarte. A beautiful paring. Without doubt. Anymore objections against the Men's Dress?
/HORST

Controversy

Top Gaspard Yurkievich Spring/Summer 2009
Bottom Unknown

I see two identical images. Two realities. Totally separate and still strangely alike. But most importantly, I desire both. The stockings and the artwork.
/HORST

Princess

Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2009

Okay, it is what Nina Garcia and Micheal Kors would have called 'costume-y' but it's Bernhard! And he masters men in tights like no other. I mean why not?
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Russki Chic

Gosha Rubchinskiy Spring/Summer 2009

I can't deny a certain fascination and attraction to the East European rude boy aesthetic. Shaved heads, bomber jackets, XL sweaters. Camouflage shorts, tennis socks and cans of beer. It might be the notion of innocence hiding behind the militaristic façade.
/HORST

Archipelago

Prada Spring/Summer 2009



Prada Spring/Summer 2010



Prada Spring/Summer 2008

One of the few reasons to actually buy the Prada book is the compilation of showspaces. The converted factory space at Via Fogazzaro in Milan transformed into various architectural grounds of experimentation. The continuous effort to dissolve the rigid configurations of the traditional runway. Unfortunately, and that speaks for itself, the venues are not labelled with the respective season, so Horst has to do the research work.
/HORST

Snow

Gaspard Yurkievich Spring/Summer 2009

I hate the never-ending snow. At the same time I feel the strong longing for whiteness. But in the context of summer and boys in shorts and tanks. Golden headbands are allowed.
/HORST