Anti-C-Portion

Spastor October 2001

Spastor is back. Back to start. Hopefully with menswear, too. Vague, crispy, blurred and sexual. A dive into the archive. Forgotten names, reloaded memories. Keep me updated.
/HORST

The Craft II

1. Maison Martin Margiela
2. Raf Simons
3. Robert Mapplethorpe
4. Comme des Garçons backstage

From graffiti to typography. The writings on the wall. White paint on black cloth. Explicit depictions of the purpose of a garment. Time to say something, time to answer, time to comment.
/HORST

Inner Friction

1. Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2011
2. Christina Aguilera Dirrty, 2002

What about chaps? The former horseback riding equipment and subsequently sexualized artefact is living its shadow existence in dark room bars. Unfortunately, it's dark in there.
/HORST

Image credits Sonny Vandevelde

Slit II

1. Karim Sadli
2. Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2011 Backstage

It has only been lately that I've realized the beauty of a male torso's side. A view that is rarely being shared or descried. Therefore, I kindly solicit its more frequent appearance.
/HORST

Male Ideal

Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2001 & 2002

Erase and rewind. 10 years back to the slender and skinny. A radical image of masculinity, slowly being forgotten and replaced by the hunk. Let's be this again. Wearing sleeveless shirts, dipped in metaphoric glitter.
/HORST

Image credits Hedi Slimane

Coronation

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2005 & Helmut Lang backstage by Jürgen Teller

Germany has a new king. It might only be relevant for a confined target group but I'd like to admit the joyous consumption of a cannibalistic product known as trash TV known as Jungle Camp.
/HORST

Black Eruption

Kris van Assche Spring/Summer 2011

Talking about dirty hands and intellectual workwear, this collection offers the visual crossover of a motor mechanic's oily biceps and a volcano's ashes spread over white linen sheets.
/HORST

Derezzed

Chanel Pre-Fall 2011

Unexpectedly it finally happened: I like Chanel. The luxurious, overboard, baroque, all-over embellished and jewelized. The twin-set becomes a trinket. Ich habe es nicht erwartet.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com, Stylerumor.com

Over Exposed

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2010 Backstage

I've never been as deeply in love with a collection than Jil Sander SS10. Intellectual destruction. For Fall/Winter 2010 we are expecting displaced patches and pinched fabric as continuation of the men's collection. Time will show.
/HORST

Resigned Forces

Cheap Monday Fall/Winter 2010

Cheap Monday goes minimal for Fall/Winter 2010, almost underdesigned. Grey and black. Plain and undisrupted. It seems extreme wearability is the statement. Rebellion is so last season.
/HORST

Image credits Sonny Vandevelde

The Spiral

Henrik Vibskov Fall/Winter 2010

Yes, we saw kilts. We saw elongated tops. We saw longjohn trousers. We saw naked hairy legs and knee-high socks. We saw consequence and re-invention.
/HORST

Image credits Sonny Vandevelde

Le 23 Samedi

A dismal and beautiful day. Signature perfection at Raf Simons. Layered suits à la Sybille Walter at Damir Doma. Fuzzy coziness at Ute Ploier. The Dreamers' bohème aestethics at Miharayasuhiro. Incognito make-up and concept art at Boris Bidjan Saberi.
/HORST

Le 22 Vendredi

Day 2 of the marathon of men in heels. A glitter boots finale and half-naked boys backstage at Tim Hamilton. Cute boys in cute suits under custody of Cerruti's new design director Jesper Borjesson. Supersized male anatomy at Walter van Beirendonck. Dedication to absolute wearability at Kris van Assche. Exquistely printed velvet at Laitinen. Finalement, star-crossed ghosts at Blaak Homme. Et voilà.
/HORST