Refashioned, Contextualized

Steven Klein for Arena Homme + Spring/Summer 1996

When leopard and lace were part of a different kind of masculinity and manhood. Images that recall another cultural phenomenon. MTV, Green Day, Silverchair. Men that play with roughness, sensitivity. And leave the last shirt button open.
/HORST

Post New York II

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Jeremy Scott Fall/Winter 2012

1. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1994
2. Janet Jackson 'Runaway' 1995
3. Flower wrap

Who doesn't love a boy toy wrapped in fluorescent plastic, just like a box of white chocolate truffles. Especially when paired with the archaic Jean Paul Gaultier, respectively Janet Jackson 'Runaway' nose chain.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Forgotten Persoons

Clothes Jurgi Persoons
Photograms Laszlo Moholy-Nagy

And suddenly there was Jurgi Persoons. Within the (too) short time span of 1997 to 2003, the unavowed Antwerp locum introduced clothes for 'anorectic, rich and lazy young girls'. His broken minimalism still merits recognition.
/HORST

Post Paris XV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2012

1. Heather and Ivan Morison Black Pig Lodge, 2011
2. Michael Jackson feat. Janet Jackson Scream, 1995
3. Jean Tinguely Relief Méta-Mécanique Sonore II, 1955

A collection that succeeds where others fail. The programmatic approach to texture manipulation results in a 3D pyramid layer created of multiple triangles that partly protrude with each movement and reflect not only light but aesthetic history.
/HORST

Post Paris XIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

1. Philippe Starck Gnome Table
2. Undefined furry object
3. Steven Meisel Vogue Italia, 1992

A collection of gnomes. An army almost. And they exclusively wear shorts in winter. Ironically, it is not a joke. So we are left with one choice: Commit to the ludicrous in all seriousness. Or have a laugh.
/HORST

Fragility

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 1991
2. Byblos Spring-Summer 1999
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2000
4. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

The advertising world is a self-referential one. Motives are subtly implied, borrowed, copied and re-introduced. Jil Sander and the image of 'broken glass'. Let he who is without sin cast the first stone.
/HORST

Licensed To Death

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, British Vogue, March 1998
2. Menswear Fall/Winter 2011
3. Vivien Solari for Calvin Klein Eyewear

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Harper's Bazaar, March 1998
2. Lara Stone by Mert & Marcus for Fall/Winter 2010
3. Menswear Spring/Summer 2009

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Vanity Fair, March 1998
2. Amy Wesson for Calvin Klein collection
3. Menswear Fall/Winter 2009

A philosophical question for the 1st of January 2012: Why is there such a depressing contradiction between the severely strong 'image' of Calvin Klein collection and the reality we are confronted with on shop floors?
/HORST

Overhead

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2001, Prada Fall/Winter 2011 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 & Gucci Spring/Summer 1995
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
4. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 & Alex Katz The Blue Umbrella
4. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2005 & Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1990

I've kept it to myself for quite a while now, but the psychological pressure got too intense. I cannot deny nor hold it back any longer. The hood is back. Floral paisley for her, apocalyptic protection for him.
/HORST

Steel On Steel II

1. Markus Pritzi for Tush
2. Jake Cooper
3. Josefien Rodermans by Naomi Yang for Vogue Taiwan

It might be time for a return to the piercing. There are several options. Several placement possibilities. Some of them have already existed on myself. Do you think it's time to return to the piercing?
/HORST

Laced Up

1. Gucci Spring/Summer 1996
2. Carlos Diez Spring/Summer 2012

Once you wear tribal, taking the next step does only seem logical. Now I want a laced front top. Just as proclaimed by the male shopping mall discount mainstream. Any suggestions?
/HORST

Wannabe

Prada Fall/Winter 1992

There was a time when even Miuccia proclaimed bimbo style. And as I've bemoaned the disappearance of Barbie Fashion, this is the last call for a better world. Self-absorbed, materialistic and pretty pretty.
/HORST

Miusing Escher IV

1. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 1997
2. M. C. Escher Blowball, 1943

The last Miu Miu flower from me to you. I especially picked a dandelion as it is the most beautiful of them all. And if you blow it carefully, it might recur again in 50 years.
/HORST

Nudist Camp III

1. Norbert Bisky
2. Winston Chmielinski
3. Hervé Caillon

Today, I am doing what humankind has done for decades and centuries. Naturalism, nudism, exhibitionism. In contrary to the works shown above, my own examination of the subject is of narcissistic nature only.
/HORST