Post Paris XI

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Eleventh chapter: Comme des Garçons

1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2012
2. René Magritte
3. Irving Penn

The principle of 'bride' taken to the last extreme extent. The bridal veil becomes the dress. Becomes everything. Some may call it totalist fashion. I'd like to call it commitment.
/HORST

Post Paris I

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
First chapter: Haider Ackermann

1. Haider Ackermann Spring/Summer 2012
2. Gerhard Richter
3. Anthony Cragg

Within the post-processing of Paris Fashion Week two aspects appear: the collections in itself and my associated experiences and visual memories. Consequently, the following reviews will only reveal one minor part of the truth. Just like a Haider Ackermann veil dress.
/HORST

Gaultier Questions V

1. Meadham Kirchhoff Fall/Winter 2010
2. Jean-Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2003

Once upon a time. A story about princesses and queens. They both love glitter and drama. Dressing up, hidding their identity behind the veils of mysticism. But how does the story truly end?
/HORST

Veil Skirts

Top Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 1993
Bottom Givenchy, Richard Nicoll, Damir Doma, Rag & Bone, J.W. Anderson, Richard Chai Spring/Summer 2011

We've been confronted with an armada of veil skirts for the upcoming Spring/Summer season. Please note that I find them wonderful, pleasing and intriguing. But I somehow question their originality. Especially when I compare 1993 Comme des Garçons with 2011 Givenchy. I expected more.
/HORST

Disillusion

Meadham Kirchhoff Fall/Winter 2010

Shock. Bewilderment. A calculated reaction, so it seems. And the Dalston pound shop aesthetic doubtlessly succeeds. Denying any hopes, dreams and prejudices one may have projected onto the young design duo. But once having a closer look, the collection reveals its poignancy. Perfectly documenting the essence of London and its omnipresent mood. A walk down Hackney Road and suddenly everything makes very much sense.
/HORST

2002

Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2002

In 2002 it was Ann Demeulemeester's vision that called for a deep-drawn sigh. Blackness that embraces the body like wads of smoke. Moments of exposed flesh and lost virginity.
/HORST

Female Indulgence

A fine luxurious selection of memorable campaigns featuring mysterious, vulnerable and androgynous female protagonists.
/HORST

Exhalation

Noir Spring/Summer 2010

A melancholic haze wafting over porcelain skin. Light nightmares beleaguering the sleeping beauty. Writhing herself in sheets of transparent organza.
/HORST

Image credits Sacha Maric

Veil

Givenchy Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2009

I think I am in love with the golden nose accessory. Opulence and orientalism created a very intriguing almost frightening scenario that leaves me a wee bit jinxed. And I warn you, don't look these creatures in the eye...
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking