Post New York II

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Jeremy Scott Fall/Winter 2012

1. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1994
2. Janet Jackson 'Runaway' 1995
3. Flower wrap

Who doesn't love a boy toy wrapped in fluorescent plastic, just like a box of white chocolate truffles. Especially when paired with the archaic Jean Paul Gaultier, respectively Janet Jackson 'Runaway' nose chain.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Post New York

A false encyclopaedic guide to the womenswear collections, presenting:
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2012

1. Rachel Blanchard as Cher Horowitz in Clueless
2. Cruella de Vil
3. Chad Butler aka Pimp C

We were all shocked by the vast, almost never-ending fur hat explosion at Marc Jacobs. An accessory that had almost been erased from our collective memory. But now we can announce with excitement: 'Crack is whack. The pimp fur look is back.'
/HORST

Post Paris XVII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2012

1. Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2010 campaign
2. Ann-Sofie Back Spring/Summer 2011
3. Justin Timberlake for Rolling Stone

After his signature muddiness and a re-orientation towards crisp minimalsim, Rick Owens celebrates wetlook. Shiny surfaces that either imply polymer fabrications or simple wetness. Both conclusions are highly satisfying.
/HORST

Post Paris XVI

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2012

1. Bruce Weber Brady Quinn for Interview Magazine
2. Joe Jacoby as Frankenstein
3. Sølve Sundsbø 'Batty Boy' for Arena Homme Plus, February 2007

We've been confronted with multiplied ridiculousness. Constructed of American football iconography and the grotesque myth of Frankenstein. There might even be a vague resemblances to the multi-sexual Glee cast. Thom, are you watching it?
/HORST

Post Paris XV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2012

1. Heather and Ivan Morison Black Pig Lodge, 2011
2. Michael Jackson feat. Janet Jackson Scream, 1995
3. Jean Tinguely Relief Méta-Mécanique Sonore II, 1955

A collection that succeeds where others fail. The programmatic approach to texture manipulation results in a 3D pyramid layer created of multiple triangles that partly protrude with each movement and reflect not only light but aesthetic history.
/HORST

Post Paris XIV

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012

1. Philippe Starck Gnome Table
2. Undefined furry object
3. Steven Meisel Vogue Italia, 1992

A collection of gnomes. An army almost. And they exclusively wear shorts in winter. Ironically, it is not a joke. So we are left with one choice: Commit to the ludicrous in all seriousness. Or have a laugh.
/HORST

Post Paris XIII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Juun J. Fall/Winter 2012

1. Björk Homogenic 1997
2. Eiko Ishioka Faye Dunaway for Parco
3. Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007

Following the visual path of the cryptic 'ikon', the geometric shape of the triangle reveals itself as a remarkable similarity. Collar, bow and cleavage depict a deep plunging V that recurs in a white shirt, layered underneath the referential print.
/HORST

Perplexions II

A false encyclopaedic guide to fashion history, presenting:
Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 1996

1. Janet Jackson Velvet Rope, 1997
2. Pandemonia London Fashion Week, 21th Febuary 2011
3. Stephan Marienfeld Bondage, 2010

Pop, postmodernism and nipple piercings. We could have had it all. Janet in a black latex bodysuit. The mastress, the mistress. Dedicated and devoted to Jean Paul Gaultier.
/HORST

Perplexions

A false encyclopaedic guide to fashion history, presenting:
Alexander van Slobbe Spring/Summer 1999

1. Céline Fall/Winter 2011
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
3. Darren Coffield 'Episodical' 2010

A boyish face. Sleek, wet hair groomed into a perfectly gentle, curly wave. A sleeveless vest. Bare arms uncovering the shadows of muscular anatomy. A photo-realistic print. This boy is carrying wood.
/HORST

Post Paris XII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Last chapter: Hussein Chalayan

1. Hussein Chalayan Spring/Summer 2012
2. Ann Demeulemeester Store Seoul
3. Cabinet 1700-1720

It almost felt like a 'best of' collection. The greatest hits of a designer who removed himself from the label he built. The garments reflected this last consequence and gave insight to the laws of fashion. The end.
/HORST

Post Paris XI

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Eleventh chapter: Comme des Garçons

1. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2012
2. René Magritte
3. Irving Penn

The principle of 'bride' taken to the last extreme extent. The bridal veil becomes the dress. Becomes everything. Some may call it totalist fashion. I'd like to call it commitment.
/HORST

Post Paris X

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Tenth chapter: Miu Miu

1. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2012
2. Wednesday Friday Addams
3. Black Shoes by Alex Katz

Mean Japanese/Victorian boarding school girls. Ready to slit their, or respectively your, wrists. Pale skin and red eyes instead of porcelain skin and red lips. The Anti-Schneewitchen.
/HORST

Post Paris IX

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Ninth chapter: Stella McCartney

1. Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2012
2. Bug eye
3. Konrad Klapheck

All eyes on her. The managing director of a factory for vegan mass production. The only remaining, truly socialist/capitalist luxury company. Of course this only is an illusion. Op-art.
/HORST