Forbidden Smell

Comme des Garçons Series 6: Synthetic

They are finally back: socially incorrect fragrances based on man-made places and materials of daily life. My left wrist still smells like 'Garage' and my right wrist like 'Tar'. A mix of lauriel aldehyde, traces of kerosene, leather notes, plastic floral notes, vetiver acetate and chinese cedar wood.
/HORST

Post New York II

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Jeremy Scott Fall/Winter 2012

1. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1994
2. Janet Jackson 'Runaway' 1995
3. Flower wrap

Who doesn't love a boy toy wrapped in fluorescent plastic, just like a box of white chocolate truffles. Especially when paired with the archaic Jean Paul Gaultier, respectively Janet Jackson 'Runaway' nose chain.
/HORST

Image credits Style.com

Nondisposable II

Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2012

The trash bag and the walking duvet. Two themes, repeatedly connected with fashion and, more precisely, the idea of the ultimate winter coat. Emphasizing the embrace of the vinyl coated.
/HORST

Nondisposable

Laitinen Fall/Winter 2012

Touching on the glossy subject of polyamide plastic, the Laitinen suit is unexpectedly introduced to a tailored outerwear shell. Underneath, shirt and trousers reveal traces of mineral acid, as they remain unprotected parts. May it always rain.
/HORST

Resubmission

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1991

It's not over yet.
/HORST

Desired #12

Comme des Garçons A New Perfume

Industrial glue, brown scotch tape, aldehydes, safraleine, hawthorns, lilac, flower oxides, musk and styrax. I need it. I need it now. A belated addition to my Christmas wishlist.
/HORST

Chemical Romance II

Artworks Eva Hesse



In Eva Hesse's work, the use of 'worthless' materials such as latex, fiberglass and plastic refers to the industrial ruins of a defeated German nation. By reinventing sculpture through aesthetic insubordination, she performs her very own, personal protest.

/HORST

Polyvinyl Chloride

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2011
2. James Long Fall/Winter 2011

As our short history of the plastic raincoat in popular culture evolves into a comprehensive saga, its index demands another chapter. Working title: Polyvinyl and polymer in contemporary fashion.
/HORST

Serialization

1. Maison Martin Margiela Tokyo Store
2. Brian Jungen Cetology, 2002

A rail of luxury items in a sterilized surrounding. Artefacts of mass market production reworked into prehistoricalist sculptures. Hold together by the linear order of our culture's white spine.
/HORST

Undoubtedly

Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

Earlier today, the infamous Maison fulfilled a Horst prophecy and presented transparent suits and plastic raincoats. Besides, the post-baroque Hotel Maison Champs Elysées delivered the backdrop for brutalist motorcycle jackets and tape-draped evening dresses.
/HORST

Raf Sander

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

I'm feeling it. Like totally. I mean. 2012 is going to be a Raf Sander year. It is about the shape as predicted. The square thing around a boys neck. Coloured python and plastic raincoats. Bananas.
/HORST

A Short History Of Twins In Popular Culture III

1. Hellen van Meene
2. Unknown
3. Unknown
4. Teenage Wasteland by Ben Weller for Dansk
5. DSquared Spring/Summer 2011 by Mert & Marcus

Scary schoolgirls, sexy schoolboys, plastic raincoats and an apple. When twins are metaphorically attached to sin. When brothers become lovers. The sweet becomes viscous. And our voyeurism is satisfied.
/HORST

See also Part I & Part II.

Fox Tales

Jeremy Scott Fall/Winter 2011 vs. Prada Spring/Summer 2011

When the idea of pop is completely understood. When references are sucked in, chewed up and spit out again. When copying is allowed. Then, we don't have another scandal, we just witness a postmodern quote.
/HORST

Polythene Wrap Fight

Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 vs. Bruce LaBruce Hustler White

Many people ask me: Horst, what to wear on Valentine's Day? Well, there surely are plenty of possibilities. But my advice remains simple: Wrap yourself as a gift.
/HORST

Wahre Liebe

Hernández Cornet Fall/Winter 2011 vs. Martin Creed

Loving the cut-through silver belts. Loving the mint green plastic dress. If I were a woman, I'd take one in every colour. And I would so wear a silver spoon bracelet with it. L'objet trouvé.
/HORST

Image credits MBFW Stockholm