Balenciaga Questions VII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
2. Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2012

Once again, the presentations of London Fashion Week have attracted attention for their close reference to Nicolas Ghesquière. Possibly unwanted yet comprehensively, strong names of their own right dare to recreate the Balenciaga look. Blatant copy or identity crisis? A (subjective) examination of facts and evidence.
/HORST

View all parts of Balenciaga Questions

Macrosection Specimen

T-shirt Maison Martin Margiela
Jeans Cheap Monday
Brooch Ann Demeulemeester

Four stitches, cross lacing and a pin. Manual techniques that emphasize the craft, the detail and the production process. Carefully leading one's view to the centrepiece, a polished black crystal.
/HORST

Heart Arrhythmia

Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2012

So beautiful. My goddess, I want it all. Elongated, slim cuts; gradients, black and white graphics. Such a clear language, so precise. A turtleneck knit dress, blue silk trousers; the minimalist reawakening of Ann Demeulemeester.
/HORST

The Farhi Simons Scandal II

1. Nicole Farhi Fall/Winter 2012
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2006

Oops, they did it again. It almost appears like a continuous effort, an established tradition to bring back Raf memories. One may appreciate and evaluate this 'homage' as archival contribution.
/HORST

See also Part I

Granularity

1. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 1998
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2006, Fall/Winter 2008 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
4. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2009 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
5. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2008 & Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

The Raf Sander universe is a hermeneutic one. The grainy knit reappears throughout the seasons, varying in shades of pale yellow into deep hues of moss green and bright cyan. Variations of one theme. The singular product, a limited edition of serial mass production.
/HORST

Desired #1

Asymmetric Sweater Lanvin

Time for the annual and holy Horst Christmas wishlist. It is not only meant as a vague indication for anyone feeling close or wanting to feel close, it is also a blunt commandment. Please me.
/HORST

Slit

Laitinen Spring/Summer 2012

Slitted eyes. Slitted wrists. Slitted knit. The side of a man's torso revealed. Bare shoulders, uncovered skin. Soft lines accentuating the principles of human construction.
/HORST

Raf Sander

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

I'm feeling it. Like totally. I mean. 2012 is going to be a Raf Sander year. It is about the shape as predicted. The square thing around a boys neck. Coloured python and plastic raincoats. Bananas.
/HORST

Thermo Conversion Fight

Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2011 vs. Global Warming

Yohji trusts in global warming. According to his latest offering, women will go out in sheer black negligé dresses in winter 2011. The hair probably already indicating the change of nature.
/HORST

Kiss

J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2011

This collection was made to be loved by me. And we all'll have to wrap ourselves in fluffy knitwear. Caressing our New Bohemian tip-to-toe paisley uniform. Completed by a contrasting rubber band cummerbund.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Winter Sleep

Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2006

This collection captures my current condition best. Wrapped in blankets and thermal wear. Minus degrees and black currant tea. When having a closer look, I do wish for Rick Owens's return to skinny boys sportswear.
/HORST