Nondisposable

Laitinen Fall/Winter 2012

Touching on the glossy subject of polyamide plastic, the Laitinen suit is unexpectedly introduced to a tailored outerwear shell. Underneath, shirt and trousers reveal traces of mineral acid, as they remain unprotected parts. May it always rain.
/HORST

Licensed To Death

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, British Vogue, March 1998
2. Menswear Fall/Winter 2011
3. Vivien Solari for Calvin Klein Eyewear

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Harper's Bazaar, March 1998
2. Lara Stone by Mert & Marcus for Fall/Winter 2010
3. Menswear Spring/Summer 2009

1. Calvin Klein Campaign, Vanity Fair, March 1998
2. Amy Wesson for Calvin Klein collection
3. Menswear Fall/Winter 2009

A philosophical question for the 1st of January 2012: Why is there such a depressing contradiction between the severely strong 'image' of Calvin Klein collection and the reality we are confronted with on shop floors?
/HORST

The Craft IV

1. Frida Gustavsson by Josh Olins
2. Matthew Bell by India Hobson

From text collage (part III) to 3D collage. Translating the concept of re-assembling stochastic pieces into a new picture, garments are layered in an loose, fragile 3D pattern, hold together by human anatomy (instead of glue).
/HORST

Splatter

Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2002

Hedi Slimane ten years ago. So modern still. And so desirable again. Everything I need is a white sleeveless shirt and a pair of black skinny trousers. And this is all. Always forever.
/HORST

Orpheus & Eurydike

Wayne Spring/Summer 2012

Before diving into the realms of Paris Fashion Week, one should look back, pause for a moment, look closely, notice and appreciate the potentially overseen, the possibly good. She is ascending.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Pristine Era

Hermès Fall/Winter 1998 - 2003

Interestingly, Martin Margiela has been working with Hermès from 1998 to 2004. It allows us to witness his approach to tailoring before the essential act of deconstruction. The graphic sartorialist.
/HORST

Restrictedly Available

Campaign JOSEFLAZO shirt

A new line, available over phone only. Five minimalist versions of the dress shirt. Handmade in London. Reversing the Savile Row tradition, appointments for a made-to-measure garment are made via hotline. And it's affordable, too. Call now.
/HORST

Awareness Campaign

Top Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2011
Bottom Unknown editorial, Smoking spoils your looks

As a non-smoker myself, I can speak with pure conscience and vehemently support a crispy clean 'all white, no nicotine' policy. So does Alexander Wang who banned and quoted the cigarette as hair clip.
/HORST

Transmitter Medium

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2011

Logical and consequent. Reducing the garment to a flat, non-dimensional shape. Re-using the female body as nothing but its theoretical framework. Oversized forms forced into fit. Acrylic glass window displays exceeded into jewellery.
/HORST

Career Woman

Victoria Stone Graduate collection

Asymmetry and disproportion. The power suit has undergone a mental change. Dissolving in certain areas while heightening in others. Confused and inappropriate in a strinking manner.
/HORST

Subtle Touch

Josef Lazo Graduate collection

High-buttoned and highly seductive. A collection that succeeds in uniting rivalling contradictions. Sheer trousers that provoke a breeze of sensuality. Strict suits and leather waistcoats that quote elemtents of menswear. The white shirt serving as pure base and projection screen for multiple layers of meaning. In this case, silence best communicates the speakers message and intention.
/HORST