Underneath

1. Christina Ledang Spring/Summer 2012
2. Prada Spring/Summer 2007

An illogical summer wardrobe built on the hyper-fitted and air-impermeable. Latex and PVC will reveal our body while hermeneutically isolating it from the outer environment. Time to bring out my vacation anti-wardrobe.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions VIII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008
2. Acne Fall/Winter 2012

The Balenciaga look constitutes itself of shape, proportion and material. Ghesquière's combination results in an almost aggressive approach towards the hard, stiff and anti-feminine. His idea seems to have arrived.
/HORST

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Post Paris XVII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2012

1. Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2010 campaign
2. Ann-Sofie Back Spring/Summer 2011
3. Justin Timberlake for Rolling Stone

After his signature muddiness and a re-orientation towards crisp minimalsim, Rick Owens celebrates wetlook. Shiny surfaces that either imply polymer fabrications or simple wetness. Both conclusions are highly satisfying.
/HORST

Reciprocity

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2012

Touching one of fashion's most relevant and recurrent topics, the black and shiny is multiplied in material and form. The result: Serial killer duplicants dressed head-to-heel in periodic leather. The question: Is Jil the new Raf?
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

When Did We Forget About Black Minimalism II

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2007
2. Daniel Turner Untitled 5150

Besides its soothing quality, black material appeals due to its manifold fetishistic dimensions. Black leather, black vinyl. The artist, the teacher and the architect. Altogether chased by their sexual instinct and intentions. Myself included.
/HORST

Desired #10

Laced PVC Pants

My last desire, or as some say, despotic demand. Combining black vinyl with side panel lacing. And although there is a vast selection of styles in cyber space, it is hard to find the right one.
/HORST

Substance

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2008

Most probably the best use of latex in fashion. A sexually connotated material that recently found its renaissance in the Spring/Summer 2011 collection of Raf Simons or the designs of Atsuko Kudo.
/HORST

Editor's note For a short history of latex in pop culture, please see Zoo Magazine #32, pages 58-59.

Post Paris VIII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Eighth chapter: Chanel

1. Chanel Spring/Summer 2012
2. Richard Avedon for Versace
3. Axolotl

I was pleasantly surprised by the supercooled modernity of the collection by Monsieur Karl. Most probably due to the appearance of techno mermaids. Dipped in metallic silver and glossy white. Wearing strapless gill tops and pearl piercings.
/HORST

Refractions

Shoes Doc Martens
Backdrops Keith Sonnier, Paolo Roversi

Top 5 worst oil catastrophes: The Gulf War, Ixtoc 1, Atlantic Empress, Nowruz Platform, Exxon Valdez. Beautiful disasters look different. It all depends on one's angle of view.
/HORST

Monolythic I

1. John Chamberlain Trumpery Praxis, 1984
2. Helmut Lang Spring/Summer 2004 campaign

The result of a multiple hours image research. Loosing the source. Investing even more time. Retriving the origin, its name, its year. And recalling even more aesthetic material.
/HORST

Image credits YHBHS

Veterinary Surgeon

Tillmann Lauterbach Fall/Winter 2011

The one collection that evoked strongest inner excitement. Tailoring with triangular collar detail, latex gloves and shirts with elongated backs. Accompanied by the cracking soundtrack of open fire.
/HORST

Balenciaga Saltlakrits

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

Looking at a Balenciaga collection is like eating a chocolate bar. Slowly chewing every bit. Discovering pieces of caramelised hazelnuts and tender swirls of caramel. This time its flavour is salty liquorice.
/HORST

Return On Investment

Artwork Steven Parrino
Shoes Raf Simons x Doc Martens

Refractions of light for a fractional amount of the original price. My latest acquirement. My treatment for the night. And please: don't be jealous of my booties.
/HORST

Everything But The Girl

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2011

Boxy jackets with stylised peacock feathers and silk dresses with white swan prints. It is Miu Miu. It is complex and willing to take risks. It is crazy in a good way. Miuccia Prada is the best womenswear designer. Full stop.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Career Woman

Victoria Stone Graduate collection

Asymmetry and disproportion. The power suit has undergone a mental change. Dissolving in certain areas while heightening in others. Confused and inappropriate in a strinking manner.
/HORST

Sushi Suits

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2010

Matching jackets and trousers that fluorescent like nori sheets. This season, Italo Zucchelli adds a hint of tacky shine to the minimalist, classic and sartorial. And when it comes to the right dosage of risk-taking I am sold.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Metal

Photos Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2004, As Four Spring/Summer 2004, Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2004

Back in the year 2004. One approach. Three interpretations. Each option has its advantages and disadvantages. Personally, I can't decide which look would suit me best. It all depends on the occasion.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Emergency

Prada Spring/Summer 2010

Nothing is more important right now than Prada, haha. Of course we will have to wait for Jil Sander for a final judgement. But I like the transparency, the raw edges and the glossy surfaces.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking