Rippchen & Kraut III

1. Cristóbal Balenciaga circa 1967
2. Marios Schwab Fall/Winter 2012
3. Valentino Fall/Winter 2012
4. Givenchy Fall/Winter 2012

My German heart feels pleased when memories of the dirndl appear. As abstract garment sculptures, laced leather versions, sexualized negligée dresses, hyper-embellished folklore costumes.
/HORST

Balenciaga Questions VII

1. Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011
2. Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2012

Once again, the presentations of London Fashion Week have attracted attention for their close reference to Nicolas Ghesquière. Possibly unwanted yet comprehensively, strong names of their own right dare to recreate the Balenciaga look. Blatant copy or identity crisis? A (subjective) examination of facts and evidence.
/HORST

View all parts of Balenciaga Questions

Pierced Souls II

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2012

When rude boy subculture and the genes of industrial goth are reapplied. Brutal signs of social membership, a commitment to tribe culture. Though, the characteristics of the clan are blurred and its origins remain unidentifiable.
/HORST

Overhead

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2001, Prada Fall/Winter 2011 & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 & Gucci Spring/Summer 1995
3. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2002
4. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 & Alex Katz The Blue Umbrella
4. Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2005 & Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1990

I've kept it to myself for quite a while now, but the psychological pressure got too intense. I cannot deny nor hold it back any longer. The hood is back. Floral paisley for her, apocalyptic protection for him.
/HORST

Post Paris XII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Last chapter: Hussein Chalayan

1. Hussein Chalayan Spring/Summer 2012
2. Ann Demeulemeester Store Seoul
3. Cabinet 1700-1720

It almost felt like a 'best of' collection. The greatest hits of a designer who removed himself from the label he built. The garments reflected this last consequence and gave insight to the laws of fashion. The end.
/HORST

Post Paris VI

A false encyclopaedic guide to the prêt-à-porter collections for Spring/Summer 2012.
Sixth chapter: Dries van Noten

1. Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2012
2. David Hockney
3. Fresh-Water Rhizopods of North America

Reminisceing pool scenes. Hard circular lines on the turquoise surface. And then, there are botanic drawings, dividing each organic organism into circles and squares. First separated and then placed together again in a nonchalant Dries gesture.
/HORST

Tropical Heat

1. Martin Honert Fata Morgana & Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012
2. Henri Rousseau Éclaireurs attaqués par un tigre & Givenchy Spring/Summer 2012
3. Andreas Gursky Beach & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
4. Jeremy Parnell Big Chook & Prada Spring/Summer 2012

It's about beaches and jungles, flowers and sand castles. Childhood memories, vacation traumata and global warming are melting and diffusing into each other. Just like a bar of rainbow coloured ice cream. In 2012, men wear Hawaii shirts, bermuda shorts and (hopefully) banana skirts.
/HORST

Tinfoil Confection

Nicomede Talavera Graduate Collection

Obviously, my heart is struck by a fluorescent pair of trousers. It's like unwrapping a piece of ice chocolate pralinés. Just better. Without the calories and sticky fingers. Just eye candy.
/HORST

Via New Male Fashion

Balenciaga Saltlakrits

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

Looking at a Balenciaga collection is like eating a chocolate bar. Slowly chewing every bit. Discovering pieces of caramelised hazelnuts and tender swirls of caramel. This time its flavour is salty liquorice.
/HORST

Whitewashed

Dries van Noten Spring/Summer 2011

Unfortunately too save. Too harmonious. Too tone in tone. Where did the risk-taking go, where the deeply admired Dries clash? Did he surrender himself to pastels? But maybe this has been his manoeuvre. Killing us softly.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking